Pinzgauer Carb Overhaul and Repair Instructions
Easy to follow instructions for the “Do it yourself or professional Technician”

Every job has a starting point, remove the seats and engine cover. This text is to supplement repair photo’s from my repair gallery.
Next remove the air cleaner and air intake housing from the carbs. At this point it is time to do some pre-repair diagnostics, grab the front carb and see if it is loose on it’s base, look for a gray residue where the base joins the bowl housing gasket. If it was loose it will need further inspection when removed.
Before removing carbs , it is wise to check the float level, before attaching the float level tool PN 9053321010, make sure to put a rag under the starter fuel jet screw ,by the lower front of the carb.
Remove the fuel starter jet screw and install the float tool, crank the engine till the level stabilizes, it should only be at the bottom edge of the tool, record the results. You can also check if the carbs are synchronized with a syncro-tester (easily obtained)

Let’s begin by removing the choke cable, and then pop off the linkage rods.
Remove fuel lines, and secure to prevent spillage of fuel.
Next remove the return springs, cutoff solonoid wires, and base mounting nuts.
Use common sense here, do one carb at a time, so you don’t mix parts.

Remove clip, washer, and spring from top of accelerator rod. Top screws are next, then lift and rotate the top of carb to release the rod from the lever, set the top down on a clean surface.
Inspect the emulsion tube in the top cover, sometimes they come loose or fall into the float bowl, remove the needle and seat valve, save the shims under the valve.
To remove the top cover gasket, you must remove the two pins that hold it into place(do not worry if the pins are missing). If you are replacing the accelerator pump, use a small screwdriver to spread the retainer, if you have a rubber plunger, you can just replace the rubber seal without removing the pump rod. I clean all parts in Carb Dip, (it comes in a gallon can) Soak all parts for 15-25 minutes, then rinse with water, and blow dry with compressed air.

Next remove the float assembly, and check for broken or worn parts. Drain float bowl ,properly dispose of waste fuel, or filter and return to fuel tank. Turn carb upside down, and remove the 4 base screws.
After removing the base inspect the bottom of the float bowl for uneven surface, and look closely at the threads in the bowl housing, Helicoil ? all damaged threads, they are 6mm x 1.0 pitch threads.
The thead repair kit is $25-$35 on average, don’t forget to use locktite on the inserts, and use side cutters to shorten the inserts, as they are too long. If the gasket surface on the bottom is not flat, use a file or flat surface with fine sand paper to re-surface as best as possible. (a new carb is $$$$$)

Now it is time to remove all jets and emulsion tube supports (wiggle and pull to remove after fixing screw is removed), and choke parts. After the bowl is stripped down, clean thoroughly and blow all passages with compressed air.
Re-assemble in reverse order, taking care to properly install O-ring seals to the pump jets (the o-ring goes in the slot closest to the head of the jet screw).
Inspect the throttle plate shaft for excess movement, oversize shafts are available.
After the main body(float bowl assy) is re-assembled, it is time to re-attach the base , there are two shouldered screws, and two that are fully threaded. The proper position for these shouldered screws is as follows, holding the bowl assy with the main jet cover facing you, put 1 in the upper left ,and the other in the lower right base bore. This arrangement will help keep the base from coming loose, you can use blue locktite on the threads also.
Now that the base is on it is time to re-install the float assy, and then put the new needle and seat into the top cover, If the new top gasket is the same thickness as the one removed , use the same amount of shim washers under it. Change out the accelerator plunger ,or just the seal if it is the rubber type.
If using leather plunger, wet with fuel prior to re-attaching the top of the carb.

To attach the top, insert the pump rod to the lever at the hole closest to the pivot , carefully rotate into position then install top cover screws and tighten, re-install spring , washer, and clip to pump rod.
Carb is now complete, if you want to check the float level prior to putting back on engine, there are two ways , first install the level guage tube then hook up to fuel pump and fill the carb, or use a coffee can with a hose raised 9-10 feet above the carb, to get the proper pressure on the seat (4-5 psi)
Remove the top to add or subtract shims from the needle seat valve.
Fuel level should be at the bottom of the tool plate, but not to the clip.
Install carb to engine , do not attach linkage yet. Turn idle screws in all the way ,then back them out 1 ½ turns, back out throttle plate screws till plates are closed, then turn them back in ½ turn.
Get out your syncro tester ,start the engine and balance the carbs till they both draw the same amount of air while taking care to maintain proper idle speed (850-900 rpm), fine tune idle jet screws, adjust linkage rods then reattach (locktite the rod ends ).

Put the air cleaner assy back on, the engine cover and seats .
Now it’s time to enjoy a smooth running Pinzgauer.
Special thanks to Dennis Williams at Linden Engineering for technical info, and Jim Mettler for the alternate coffee can fuel supply instructions to achieve proper fuel pressure for bench testing.